Although it required a multi-hour trip through the typically dangerous Balinese traffic, nothing could prevent us from exploring Ubud. Located in the middle of the island, Ubud is the cultural center of Bali.
Determined to get the most out of our time, we hired a private guide to drive us a couple hours north into the heart of the area. On the way, we took in a Balinese play where a mythical prince battled a demon, saw the famous Balinese silversmiths at work, viewed terraced rice paddies and the powerful Mount Batur, and examined the Royal Palace and adjacent Flea Market.
Eventually we came to three locations that will always be remembered. The first is known as the Goa Gajah, also known as the Elephant Cave. Ironically, this 9th century sanctuary was not named after elephants since no elephants resided in Bali until very recently. According to scholars, this name most likely comes from the nearby Sungai Petanu (Petanu River), which at one time was known as the Elephant River.
As is the custom for all religious destinations in Bali, we draped ourselves in a sarong before entering the area. Following our guide down the winding stone stairs, we came to a small meditation cave. The entryway of this cave is the most unique part, designed as it is to resemble a menacing face with the doorway being its open mouth. Although it reminded us of a demon, we wandered through the opening to the darkness within. Almost immediately, we came to a small enclosure where three ancient shrines to the gods were displayed.
After returning to the light, we ventured further into the sanctuary and came upon one of the best parts: a flourishing jungle with romantic waterfalls tucked into remote niches and a Buddhist temple at its heart. We received a blessing at the temple and then headed back to our guide at the top of the hill, all the while taking in the majesty of the scenery.
The second memorable stop was a coffee plantation that specialized in the making of Luwak, the most expensive coffee in the world. Hilariously enough, the beans of this coffee are actually created by being partially digested and then defecated by the Asian palm civet (a small nocturnal mammal). To be quite honest, we had wanted to skip this part of the tour. We had mistakenly thought we were going to a coffee factory like those in America. We couldn’t be more wrong, a fact we recognized almost instantly.
Upon arriving at the coffee plantation, the storm that had been threatening all day finally decided to unleash its fury and we found ourselves navigating through the jungle in the middle of a fully fledged thunderstorm! It was amazing!! As we excitedly ducked under the massive verdant foliage, doing our best to listen to the history lesson our nonchalant guide was giving us, we battled against the elements. Rightfully so, the elements won and, after a bit of a trek, we emerged into a small enclosure completely drenched and grinning from ear to ear.
Like many others, this Balinese coffee plantation was family owned and operated. As such, it was the owner’s son who greeted us and proceeded to explain to us the various processes behind making Luwak as well as all the other types of coffees and teas that they offered. Afterwards, he directed us to a table overlooking the valley, giving us a dozen free samples of the coffees and teas that were the hallmark of this particular plantation. As the rain continued to fall in earnest, we availed ourselves of the samples and, when we left, it was with no few packages from the nearby shop. 
The third remarkable destination that will never be forgotten is called the Ubud Monkey Forest (also known as Mandala Suci Wenara Wana). Think Indiana Jones, but completely surrounded by hundreds of small monkeys. In fact, a rough estimate puts the total amount of monkeys at almost 800! This was their home, a sanctuary composed of their natural habitat and completely devoted to the Balinese Long Tailed Monkey. Although most seemed friendly, we were mindful of the diseases that a monkey bite can transmit. Having no intention of ruining our trip, we chose to admire them from afar.
Just as intriguing as the monkeys themselves was the setting: dozens of paths wound snakelike through the jungle, a stone bridge capped with dragons towered over the raging waters of a torrant river, and interesting moss covered statues and temples had been placed erratically throughout the sanctuary. All in all, it was a magical location that brought out our overly active imagination and we found ourselves vowing to return one day in the future.
Another day in Ubud brought us to the Elephant Safari Park, where we were able to ride and feed a multitude of Asian elephants. Smaller than their African cousins, these elephants had been rescued from poachers. The Park itself was lovely, a clean and orderly space that was obviously a refuge to the elephants. There were dozens of uniformed caretakers and it was clear that each had a comfortable relationship with their charges.
The Park hosted a range of activities. We even got to witness a show where the elephants displayed their artistic and athletic talents! And, while riding the elephants was interesting, nothing could be compared to actually being able to feed these gentle giants. Like children with candy, the elephants reached eagerly for the fruit treats we offered and it was surprising just how strong their leathery trunks were! In fact, we had to consciously make sure they didn’t take our hands along with the treats. We were allowed to pet them and, at one point, the elephants even hugged us with their trunks! Needless to say, we loved every moment spent in their company.
In short, Ubud left us awed and, any time we think back to our time in Bali, it is with the memories of this beautiful and inspiring location that spring to mind first. To those considering a destination to travel to, we recommend Bali in general and Ubud in particular. We can promise that you’ll never forget the experiences gained in this fascinating and exotic land. 😀
For additional photos, please see:
– Indonesia 2017 – Bali: Legian & Kuta
– Indonesia 2017 – Bali: Uluwatu & Jimbaran Bay
For more information about this country, please see our other article: